On Accommodations

The places I spend the night while on the trail can generally be sorted into four basic types:

1. Tent - MSR Hubba; sleeps one (i.e. - me) with room for boots and other random junk and my pack outside under the vestibule.
2. Shelter - Structures placed along the trail near a water source (most of the time) specifically for hikers to sleep in; sleeps anywhere from 5-25; usually wooden, usually 3-sided, although some are definitely more impressive than others.
3. Hostel - Any place along the trail that offers overnight accommodation at a significantly cheaper price than a hotel, generally geared toward hikers; usually a bunk room w/ shared bath; may or may not have mattress, sheets, food, etc.
4. Hotel/Motel - You probably know what I'm talking about; From Mictrotel in Franklin, NC to Bales Motel in Gatlinburg (see The Gatlinburg Gang: Parts 1 and 2).

Of all the states so far, Pennsylvania has definitely offered the most interesting and ecclectic choices for accomodation, sometimes blurring the lines between categories. My first night was spent tenting literally just north of the Mason Dixon Line, between railroad tracks and a road crossing, and the second at a pair ("snoring" and "non-snoring") of incredibly nice shelters. Then, right after the halfway mark was the Ironmaster's Mansion hostel, which used to be the huge house of (you guessed it) the owner of an iron mine, who also happened to be on the train of the Underground Railroad, so there were some cool secret rooms underneath it, too!

With halfway under my belt, I decided to trek it all the way to Boiling Springs - a very pretty town, but not exactly hiker-convenient. Basically the only places to stay are bed & breakfasts, or a hiker campsite a half a mile out of town (with no water). Except, one wonderful family, the Mateyas (I hope I spelled that right), invite hikers to spend the night in their backyard, in an adorable little playhouse their kids had. Is it a shelter or a hostel? Either way, it was warm and cozy and dry, and exactly where I stayed.

Still moving on, my next stop was the great little trail town Duncannon, and the hiker mecca that is The Doyle Hotel. The Doyle is one of those long-fabled and anticipated stops for most hikers. But don't let name fool you - it's not a Super 8. In fact, it would probably fit more comfortably in the "hostel" category, with their low, low price and mostly hiker customers, except for the fact that you do get your own room. The Doyle was built back around 1900, when Duncannon was probably a more booming town. It has a pub on the first floor (with excellent food), while rooms are located on the 3rd and 4th floors - a shared bathroom for each floor. My corner room (two windows!) contained a twin bed, a chair, an old dresser, and an oscillating fan. Vickie and Pat, the owners, are some of the nicest people on the whole trail. The Doyle has ambiance. Character. Just no cable or air conditioning. I loved it.

After Duncannon, it was back to shelters. But not just any shelters. The 501 shelter (so-named because it's right next to PA501) could easily be a hostel. It's a 4-sided building, with bunks, a solar shower, and a caretaker who lives in the house next door. And because it's right near the road - pizza delivery. What more can you ask for? Electricity, you say? Well, wait 'til you get to the Eckville shelter, 'cause that's exactly what they've got. A lightbulb and an outlet and everything. It's in a little building right behind a house (another caretaker). Only 6 bunks, but oh yeah, it's got a real flush toilet, too!

And finally, yesterday I came into the great little town of Palmerton, where they have what they call the "Jailhouse Hostel". In one of the city buildings, which used to be the old jailhouse, they let hikers spend the night in the basement for free (bunks and everything)! It's not really like a jail at all anymore, but if you need to check in after the office has closed, you're supposed to just flag down an officer on patrol and he'll let you in. Ha!

So thanks, Pennsylvania. Despite all the boulder fields and rock slides during the day, you've certainly provided some sweet places to spend the night. The next seven states will have a lot to live up to.